Play Craft’s Equal – Top finished! Quilting?

frost_0303_1YESSSSSSSS!  All those triangles, all together!  So pleased with this one!  😀  For reference, here’s the original image I’ve been working on, created from Equal by Play Crafts (and thank you to Lori for pointing out that it was AWOL!):FrostByte

In a spirit of doing ALL the experiments, I have bought some 100% wool wadding for this (I have not tried wool yet) and I ordered some Aurifil thread for the quilting (I have not tried Aurifil, either).  And I couldn’t resist picking up some super-cute koi fish fabric for the back.  They manage to combine all the colours in the fabrics of the top, and I like the idea that, if I go with my all-over frosty feathers quilting idea, they’ll look (hopefully!) like they’re swimming below a skim of ice.  (I doubt I’m going to be that lucky, but I’m nothing if not ambitious!)Cute koi!

It will most likely be a wall hanging, or some other purpose that doesn’t demand a lot of washing and wear; the wool wadding seems to be a bit picky about cleaning methods and I’m not convinced all that glitter on the fabrics won’t all come off in the first wash.  Certainly there seems to be quite a bit on my ironing board!  Plus it’s kind of a funny size (~30 x 34″) to do anything with, especially as I have no intention of adding borders.

Fabric choices

After trying this pattern, I came to the conclusion that, although my light and dark fabrics worked well, my medium fabrics were less effective because the print is just too large – in some places the medium triangles look reasonably obvious, in others they’re almost impossible to distinguish from the light triangles.

frost_0303_2
Oooo look, actual colours!

I don’t mind this overly much, I suspected that it would be the case and I still like the outcome because I like these fabrics.  However, it does alter the look of the pattern a bit.  Were I to do this again, I would lean towards choosing solid or reads-as-solid fabrics over larger prints.  The use of two different prints for each shade was also a little confusing, though mostly because of the above-mentioned issue with the medium-coloured fabrics being too light in places.  That’s not something I would necessarily avoid in future, but again it changes the very graphic look of the original design.  I would also tend to avoid very directional prints, or the effort of getting everything pointed in the right direction could be maddening!

Fat quarters versus yardage?

I mostly used fat quarters for this; it did work out ok and my yardage estimates were pretty good.  However, I would say that, because of the approximation used when calculating the number of triangles in a strip (counting two half-triangles at each end of a strip as one whole triangle), there would be less wastage and yardage estimates would be more accurate if WOF yardage were used rather than fat quarters because it reduces the number of strips required (1 WOF strip = 2 FQ strips).  That means two fewer “wasted” half-triangles.  Alternatively, calculations for the number of strips needed could be approached differently to give a more accurate result.

Using up “ends” from larger triangles to cut smaller triangles also helped reduce waste and proved to be essential for cutting enough of the light-coloured triangles.  I almost ran into trouble when piecing the final strip when I realised that I was one medium-sized light triangle short and didn’t have a large enough piece of the light-coloured fabrics left to cut more.  I told myself that, if necessary, I would replace it with a medium-coloured triangle, but in the event I found that I had an extra dark triangle the right size, so I substituted that instead.  At least with a pattern like this, such antics go pretty much unnoticed!  😀  I also came up a bit short on small light and dark triangles, but had more enough scraps left to be able to cut extras with no trouble.  So I can’t count, but it all worked out ok anyway!  :p

Quilting thoughts

So, feathers?  Feathers.  Despite the fact that I have never quilted a feather in my life and I still haven’t really mastered FMQ on the Pfaff.  Yay.  This may well be time to bust out the water-erase fabric pen I bought, if only I can remember where I put it!

Quilting threads
Aurifil 50/2, YLI Soft Touch 60/2, The Bottom Line 60

My Aurifil thread arrived, along with some YLI Soft Touch and some Superior Bottom Line and a ridiculous variety of different types and sizes of needles:Machine needles for quilting

Somewhere in here there must be a combination that will work for me!  I’m pleased with the colour of Aurifil I chose – it’s called Silver and proved to be a really nice soft grey with a hint of blue, perfect for a frosty look.  If Aurifil proves to work well for me, I may pick up their thread shade card – it’s horrible playing “guess the real colour” on a computer screen.  :/  I picked grey for the other two as well so that they have the potential to blend with a decent range of colours, I hope.  The site I bought these from, New Threads, has a really useful-looking page of advice on choosing the right needle to match the task and the thread, and I shall be using the suggestions in my experiments.

Additionally, I recently discovered that The Cotton Patch run a “Make Friends With Your Pfaff” course that focuses on patchwork and quilting, and the next one is at the end of March (which unfortunately coincides neatly with when we’re likely to move house, but oh well).  It was £45 because I didn’t buy my machine from them, but I suspect it will be money well spent so I signed up for the last available place, and hopefully they can help me see where I’m going wrong with my machine and give me some tips on making the most of it.  In the meantime, I’m going to Pfaff about with a few thread/needle combos and see how I get on.  😉

Previous posts on this project can be found here:

Linking up with WIP Wednesday over at Freshly Pieced and #CreativeGoodness at QuiltShopGal!

Play Craft’s Equal – Piecing!

frost_2702_5Look what I did!

frost_2702_4Check out those points!

frost_2702_2IT WORKS!!!  *excited flailing*

I mean yes, I did a bunch of calculations to be as sure as I could be that it *would* work, but it’s still nice to find that everything is fitting as it should and going together really well!frost_2702_9I am SO pleased with this so far!  I still have a few more rows to do, but I’m now confident that they won’t give me any trouble.

In general, the piecing has been as straightforward as it can be with three different sizes of triangle.  I’ve trialled a couple of different approaches now (strips versus building up large triangles from the smaller ones), and I think I prefer the latter.  I am also absolutely confident that I DO NOT want to piece triangles any smaller than this; the 1″ triangles are just about manageable, but anything smaller would be a nightmare in terms of lining everything up and managing the seams.

Tips for construction

Not put off by walls of maths and the prospect of endless equilateral triangles?  Want to try one of these?  Here are some of the things I’ve found when piecing this beastie.

  • Accurate cutting is your friend!

Obviously, starting with carefully cut pieces is crucial since it makes lining everything up to join *so* much easier!

  • Don’t skimp the seams!

Use the full 1/4″ seam allowance, or even a thread or so more.  Using a 1/4″ presser foot helps a lot with this.  I found that using scant seams on the smaller triangles meant that they came up a bit large when I joined them to the largest triangles, which meant more need to ease and argue to get everything lined up right.  My guess is that the 3/4″ seam allowance given for equilateral triangles is slightly out, but is the closest approximation we can sensibly measure with cutting rulers.  It’s fine as long as you’re aware of it.

  • Be mindful of the fabric grain

If possible, try to make sure that the grain of the fabric is pointing up and down the quilt.  This should make the overall quilt more stable and make piecing finished strips easier, but it means that a lot of the piecing of individual triangles is along bias edges, so care is needed to avoid stretching the triangles out of shape.fabric _grain

  • Minimal pinning

These aren’t very big triangles so I found that mostly they don’t need a lot of pinning; I could just line the points up and sew.  Especially on the smallest triangles (remember, mine finish at only 1″ tall!), pinning would distort them too much and make things worse, not better.  I kept pins for matching points and the largest triangles once the strips were long and heavy enough to pull the triangles out of alignment.  If possible, I kept pins away from the stitching area to stop them throwing off the presser foot.

  • Press seams open
frost_2702_7
Actually, I think it could be MUCH worse…

The random nature of piecing this makes it pretty well impossible to nest seams pressed to the side, and the dog-ears from seams pressed open are invaluable for helping to line up triangles when piecing.  Press ’em open, it makes life a LOT easier!

  • Press ALL the things!

Don’t even THINK you can get away with not pressing seams!

  • Use pins to line up points

When piecing complete strips or finished triangles together, I use a pin to line up the points as closely as possible by passing it through the back of one point and then through the front of the opposite point and pinching them tightly together against the head of the pin while I added a second pin to hold them flat and in place for sewing.frost_2702_8

  • Sew a straight line!

Sounds stupid; of course you’d want to sew a straight line!  But with the bulk of the seams (and maybe a pin) under the presser foot, it can be easy to wiggle off course and miss catching points together properly.

  • Have a pointy thing ready to tame rebellious seams

Pressing the seams open results in lots of little dog-ears and pointy seams that have an annoying habit of flipping up and scrunching when they’re sewn.  I kept my seam ripper to hand so that I could use the point to press them flat or coax them to lie nicely under the presser foot if necessary.  Essential when joining finished strips together.

Strip versus triangle piecing

I started by piecing same-size triangles together into the longest strips possible, then joining strips together and connecting them with larger triangles.  This works, but I felt it wasn’t as precise as it could be because you end up with lots of long seams and lots of points to match, which can be a bother.  Not to mention, depending on the pattern, long strips aren’t always an option anyway.  The advantage of this method is that it’s reasonably easy to keep track of where you’re up to with a strip.

What I refer to as “triangle piecing” means piecing the smallest triangles into medium-sized triangles, then piecing the medium-sized triangles into large triangles and then joining all large triangles into a finished strip.  Sound confusing?  Yes.  That’s the biggest disadvantage of this piecing strategy, really.  You can end up spending a fair bit of time squinting at numerous pairs of triangles and trying to figure out where they go and what you need to add next.  It helps to define the large triangles before piecing them (I outlined them in pencil on my print-out), or it can get very muddly, and between sewing machine and ironing board things can get very mixed up too.  It’s *not* impossible, but it does need patience and attention!  However, as mentioned, depending on the pattern this approach may well be necessary anyway and I did feel that the piecing of the finished strips with this approach seemed neater and more precise.  I’ll continue using this method for the last few strips.

Thoughts so far

I am SO SO SO proud of how well this experiment is working!  Some of my points are bit more “off” than my inner control freak would like, but given what I’m trying to do I think they’re actually pretty damn good.  My inner control freak can STFU for once!  I wish I could say that the quilting will be beautiful and complement the frosty triangles wonderfully, but I have to be honest and say that quilting’s my weakest skill; I’ll attempt some all-over feathers, but be prepared for disappointment there!  I would totally do this kind of thing again, in fact I’d love to make one with larger triangles (because I think accurate cutting/piecing/point matching would be vastly easier) and with shot cottons (because shot cottons might be my new fabric obsession).  But I’ll probably need a wee break from equilateral triangles for a bit once I’ve finished this one!  😉

Linking up with QuiltShopGal’s #CreativeGoodness, in case anyone else is mad enough to want to try this.  :p

 

Play Craft’s Equal – CUTTING! SEWING!

See here and here for my previous posts about using Play Craft’s Equal.

Frostbyte triangles

I love these fabrics, they’re so SPARKLY!  (Even if my cutting and ironing boards are now covered in glitter.)  Anyway, these are some of the triangles I’ve cut for Frostbyte; they are 4.75, 2.75 and 1.75″ tall, and have been cut starting from the largest and working down, which worked well because I could cut up any left-overs from larger strips for the smaller triangles.

Half-equilateral triangles
Not the same!

I also re-discovered that not all half-triangles are created equal!  Initially I just cut them at random without referring to my printed Frostbyte diagram, but then part-way through cutting the medium-coloured, medium-sized triangles it occurred to me to check against my print-out and I realised that a lot of the ones I’d cut didn’t “point” the right way.  Ooops.  But fortunately I realised in time and could cut the rest of the ones I needed the right way around, though I did have to go back and re-cut both the large dark half-triangles.

Medium triangles

Part-way through cutting the smallest triangs, I confess I got kind of bored (I’d done all the dark ones and was still faced with the prospect of cutting some 220-odd more light- and medium coloured ones, blah!), so I took the large and medium triangs over to the sewing machine and started piecing neighbouring same-size triangs into strips in a vague sort of way.

Triangle strips

This is not entirely how I intended to piece this, but I think it’ll work.  I also think that my medium-coloured fabrics are a bit light in places (depends which bit of the print is showing), but I think I’m still going to like the finished product, even if it’s not identical to the concept image.Triangle stripsWhee!  😀  (We’ll see if I’m still squeeing when I have to join triangles of different sizes…)

Linking up with Freshly Pieced’s WIP Wednesday.

Play Craft’s Equal – Yardage calculations

See here for my wall of text introduction to making a quilt by using Play Craft’s Equal.

FrostByteThis thing is still preying on my mind, so I decided to crunch some numbers and see if I could calculate yardage estimates for making it!  😀  I adore stuff like this, I really do.  (Hey, I’m a scientist – clue’s in the blog name!  ;))  This post is likely to get pretty mathsy pretty quick, but I’ll do my best to explain my workings and keep it all clear.

Continue reading Play Craft’s Equal – Yardage calculations

Playing with Play Craft’s Equal

I stumbled across Play Craft’s blog while looking for information about Pantone’s Colour of the Year and noted with interest the web-based quilting tools they have available there: Palette Builder, Color Play and Equal.  The last one in particular caught my eye, being the lover of equilateral triangles that I am!  After poking it for a bit, I decided to see if I can make a quilt from a generated pattern and document the process.

Continue reading Playing with Play Craft’s Equal